Busing it to Can Tho and the floating markets of Cai Rang and Phong Dien

The Mekong region of Vietnam is the market basket of the nation. Not only does it produce most of the rice fueling the Vietnamese people but is ranked number 5 out of the top 10 rice producing

nations. However, rice is not it's only agricultural product, climate and the nutrients of the Mekong's soil offer up a plentiful amount and selection of fruits and vegetables of world class quality and it's hard working and clever workers have created an ever expanding manufacturing base.

Can Thao is Vietnam's fifth largest city (1.5 million as off 2012), along with being the region's largest city and the center of commerce in the Mekong.   Also a good place to take a peak at what is reminiscent of old school Vietnam, the floating markets of Cai Rang and  Phong Dien. As roads improve some of these markets are fading but as of now these two are vibrant.

If you swing through Pham Ngu Lao backpackers area you'll find many tour companies offering tours down into the

Mekong.  Normally the ones that do the floating markets are an overnight trek by bus, stopping at small interesting Mekong cities like Cai be and Vinh Long. Culminating with an overnight stay in Can Tho. These two day tours are

inexpeancive can be a mindless experience as you trug the well worn tourist trail as you are herded on and off a tour bus.  All for about 500,000 dong, about $25.00 US, including overnight lodging. So if your into cheap and mindless adventures with complete strangers, these tours will be perfect for you.

Don't buy a ticket at this counter, look
for a big bus.  This are mini buses,
crowded and uncomfortable.

 Howevier, if your up for a little adventure, book your hotel over the Internet, board a public bus and head out to Can Tho, once their you can wonder down to the river front, Ninh Kieu quay and make your own arrangements for the next days boat trip to the floating markets. 

Phuong Trang has frequent express buses departing from the Mien Tay bus station in Saigon's district 6 or private trerminal on Le Hong Phong street in district 10 and take one of their shuttle's to the Western Bus Station (Mien Tay bus station). No need to purchase a ticket in advance at a cost of 125,000 dong for the 3 1/2 - 4 hour bus ride with a half hour stop midway or their a bouts, just get to the bus station.  Note: no restroom on the bus. 

Vui - boat-woman 

A guide and boat (package deal and can't get one with out the other) which leaves at the ungodly hour of 5:15 am for the markets. This is a morning thing and you want to arrive before the big tourist boats show up. Also, more importantly 5:15 is when the boat operators want to leave, which all seem to be women, actually everything seems to be done by women here. My ex wife was early raiser too. To do both market's it's a 6 hour deal at a cost of about 700,000 dong. I've used Vui, that's her in the photo, 01214264381 and I like her but once you are by the quay many will approach you about a trip and probably about the same drill but Vui is so cute and sweet. Remember, their are no set fees, so nail down a price and agree on everything before pushing off.  

So in the morning of day one you bus down, check into your hotel, get the lay of the land. The market, river front,

the statue of Ho, maybe a hour boat ride cruising the river and some of the back water canals or just wondering aimlessly, which is one of my strong points .  You should have booked or looking for a hotel close to Ninh Kieu quay, with in sight of the giant statue of Ho Chi Minh so you can easily walk to your boat in the dark on day two. Your boat operator will be patrolling the area looking for you, so don't worry about finding her.  If you didn't organize your boat in advance, not a problem, you'll be inundated by boat-women.  

A room goes for anything from $10.00 to $100.00 plus a nigh and if not booked in advance it shouldn't be a problem finding a spot. 

You can be back in Saigon by 6:00 on day two if you want too.     Anyway, enjoy "cause you the man" doing it your way.

Thanks for stopping by -  Doug

The Mekong Rivers floating markets.

In Can Tho head over to Ninh Kieu Quay, the river front area, its land marked by the gigantic statue of Ho Chi Minh. As you look past Ho and down the river front you’ll see the larger tourist company boats tied up. Closer to you you’ll see a few small long tail boats pulled up to the shore and these are what you want.  Though, probably at this point even if you don’t see the boats the independent boat operators will have found you. I used a lady by the name of Huong. She was friendly, cute and gave me good couple hour tour of the Mekong and channels around Can Tho on day one. Day two was a long one, spent 7 hours on the river and visited Cai Rang and the Phong Dien floating markets. 

As far as what the cost is for hiring an independently run boat, bargaining is required but the bottom line should be around $ 7.00 an hour. However, like any transaction in Vietnam, make sure you have an agreed up on price before you set foot on the boat and pay when the trip is finished. 



A couple things about the floating markets, you need to get an early start and I'm talking 5:30 early. Vietnamese are up early and do their marketing first thing in the morning and the boat trip from Can Tho is an hour or so to the closest market and two plus hours to Phong Dien. So if you lolly gag around in Can Tho and arrive at the market late morning, you just might miss out. After all the floating markets are just that and its boats are free to come and go at will. Lastly you need an early start to get a jump on the Saigon based tour buses and the hordes of tourists disgorged into large tour boats over running the markets.

If you’re a fan of boats and enjoy time on the water like me, you'll find the Mekong, its people and boats plying its waters mesmerizing. The floating markets are interesting but being part of what's moving on the river is the real trip. Things like the floating gas dock where our boat lady bought a liter of gas in a reused plastic soda bottle. 

The soup lady at Cai Rang market ladling out hot soup when her boat leached and the hot liquid poured over her hand, only to wince and refill the bowl and pass it over to the boatman. Tough people these Vietnamese are. While visiting the markets it boats supplied us with great tasting iced coffee, had bowls of really great tasting soup, shared a fresh pinnacle prepared by a passing boatman with a very large knife and shared a lot of smiles.  

While in one of the cannels, Huong chopped a palm prong off of a water side plant, striped the outside away and fabricated an adjustable bracelet for me as she ran the boat. 

Then Can Tho comes back in view, she noses her boat up to the bank, ties a line, hops ashore and reaches her hand out to help you scramble up the bank and your land based again with uncle Ho smiling down on you.




As always, your hero is here
for you