Then it was Vietnam - part 5 - Same, same but different

Get your motorbike running 

As lives do, mine did stabilize, but the Vietnam experience stuck with me.  That is the reason why some 35 years after my return from Vietnam I found myself thinking about revisiting. Since then I've made numerous trips back and once again arriving with my butt jammed into one of those ever shrinking seats in the economy class section of Cathay Pacific. We are arriving at Ton San Nhut, no longer a key US Airbase but now one of the two international

Saigon at night  -  by Nguyệt Cát

airports in Vietnam.  As a US Airbase it was on the edge of Saigon but now the ever expanding Saigon has grown around it.  As our plane taxi es up to the  terminal,  I watch through my window as the few remaining remnants of what was Ton San Nhut Airbase slide past.

"Damn", I think to myself,  all these years when so much has changed and still so much seems the same - "same same but different"

On my first trip back, taxing in was really eerie as the terminal had the outward appearance of base ops of the 60's where my first Vietnam experience began. Since 1999 it went through several upgrades and then a few years ago a new modern terminal was erected. Through the entry drill has remained pretty much the same.

On arrival our flock deplanes, guided by strategically stationed, cute ao dai clad attendants, directing us towards customs and immigration's.  We queue up at immigration's to have our visa's checked and have our entry stamped in our passports. Nowadays this is a quick and painless process, gone are the days of those little slips of paper they called entry permits and wondering if you need to slip a fiver in your passport to speed up your entry process.   Still immigration officers in general are a grim bunch but guess it's part of the job. Though an exception to this was the immigration officer in Singapore who noted I wasn't feeling well, offered up a smile and a cherry sucker.

Head to the luggage carousel, grab a cart and wait for my bags to show up. Load my bags onto the cart and head to customs.  At customs you pull your bags off and send them through the x ray

tunnel, really not sure what that is all about as you only have to send through the big bags and they don't really look at the x ray screen.  Maybe they just want to see you struggle with your bags. Anyway, nothing to declare and my luggage passed the x ray test, so once again I'm officially in Vietnam.  

Bags in hand I look around the terminal, seeing a few currency exchange outfits, some travel operators but as usual the terminal seems strangely vacant. That is until you peer out the exit door of the terminal lobby, looking past the security and the vacant rectangular shaped patch of side walk to see a wall of people.  You work your way through the wall which is a mix of relatives, friends of folks arriving, taxi cab and motorbike types, hotel and guest house drivers flashing cards with their new guests names drawn out in magic marker and of course their are always those enterprising gents who are probably in search of a expeditious way to increase their fortunes. For some unknown reason, anyway to me, people aren't allowed into the terminal to wait for arriving flights.

I work my way through the mass of folks out to the taxi queue.   Taxi queue, in the past it was up to you not to get ripped off and conversations such as "Yes, I know you have a meter but what do you think it will cost" were common conversations as arriving passengers tried to waylay creative long expensive rides to the city center.  

We leave the airport and enter the traffic filled road taking us into city center district 1.  Motorbike traffic in Saigon is legendary and that was when motorbikes were expensive and now a mass of cheap Chinese bikes are available, population was less back then and added to this now you have a tremendous increase in the number of cars on the road which makes traffic a bigger mess then ever. Looking out my window past the congestion of motorbikes, cars, taxi's, buses and trucks and still a random push cart or bicycle I see newly built, modern looking buildings but still much of the old Vietnam shows through.  As one of my friends shared with me "after 24 years of living here, they can make as many physical changes as the want but the Vietnamese people are the same and because of this I stay". 

So, without putting much strain on my brain, even with all the changes, vestiges of pre 1975 Vietnam slip out of my memory and another times comes flowing back...   

                                 "Same, same but different"                    

                                                       

Then it was Vietnam - part 2

Village meeting - Binh Dinh Province - 1967

                     
The war was going strong, with the US committed to adding me along with many others to its expanding effort. Though, as it turned out this didn't do much to change the course of the war as in the not too distant future the US, started scaling back on it's commitment. Then, abruptly pulled the plug on its war effort, walking away from its  multi-zillion-dollar investment, along with a cadre of loyal Vietnamese. Ton Son Nhut Air Base was a good example of the bounty left behind and was recreated by the new North Vietnamese government as one of the two international airports serving Vietnam, the other being in Hanoi. Ton Son Nhut is located about 30 minutes from Saigon's city center, district 1.

Ultimately, as things turned out I ended up in Phu Cat in Binh Dinh Province. A heck of a long way from Saigon but close enough to be regaled with the stories of the goings on in the city from air crews ferrying supplies and personal. Hearing so many of these stories I started to get the feeling I had been there my self.  

From the stories it seemed the fascination for all that experienced Saigon was its ability to morph into whatever role was expected of it. For the war weary young GI's it was a place to have a bunch of Ba Ba Ba's (inexpensive, Vietnamese beer), meet beautiful and fun Vietnamese ladies and for a moment, loosen the vice grip of the life and death realities of war.  While on a more restrained note Saigon was the political capital of South Vietnam, housing the south's military and political leadership, along with the foreign embassies representing nations friendly to the South's cause. Of course it was also ground zero for US Military's Command Group governing operations in Southeast Asia. This was all played out in front of a backdrop of hardworking Saigonese shopkeepers, laborers, and the other ordinary Vietnamese that were the core of the city. All this was stirred into the bubbling mass of affluent Vietnamese business folk, fast buck hucksters, hookers and pimps. It must have been quite a place back then but how about now, 35 some years later.  Well, for me Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, or whatever you want to call it, while more mellow under the communist regime is still a damn cool place.  

It wasn't until I made my return 15 years ago that I would be able to spend any time in Saigon.  On my year gig in the war, landing in-country at Ton Son Nhat was as close as I  was to get to Saigon. Stretching my be legs after my late morning arrival I stumbled across the base Airman's club where the bartender turned out to be an old friend from my home town.  Man it sure is a small  world. After a beer, ok two, and a bite to eat I was feeling a little more relaxed.  Wished my newly found, old friend well, slung my duffel over my shoulder, orders in hand and headed back out to the flight line in search of a ride to Quin Nhon, listed as my new duty station.

Right off, I found a friendly C130 crew chief who offered up a hop to Quin Nhon. That is, if I could give them a hand rolling off a jeep at an airstrip along the way.  

You know that old saying - "the devil is in the details" and in this case, the details were in our pilot's attempted landing on one of those temporary, metal-grating landing strips, while someone or someones on the ground were shooting up at us! 

All the while the pilot continued on his approach, the tail ramp door was opening as the crew chief struggled to get the jeeps wraps off. While I made a feeble attempt to help with one hand and  with the other holding a death grip on a exposed section of the bulkhead. As I'm thinking "screw this damn jeep," and struggling to keep my balance the pilot abruptly pulled up in preparation for a second approach. Meanwhile, the crew chief was back to taking care of the jeep as the pilot lined us up for a second pass.  He drags himself over to my bulkhead and hollers in my ear, "Get ready, this time the jeep is out of here and so are we" As we made our approch I strained to see out and get a look at our landing path, the metal corrugated strip was pock marked and hardly visible through the grass that had over gown it but the area appeared deserted (emphasis on appeared).  The rest was a blur as we fell over one another, kicking the damn jeep out.  Not sure if we were actually on the ground when it finally rolled off, but we had done our job.

The chief comes over and says "Welcome to Vietnam" and I'm thinking, "as a supply sergeant I don't think I'm supposed to be doing this kind of stuff ".  An hour or so later we landed at Quin Nhon, the second leg of what turned out to be a three leg trip to my new duty station.   

To be continued:

(link to part 1)  

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